Other
Names: Badjao, Badjau, Bajao, Bajaw, Bajo,
Sama Dilaut and Sea Gypsies
Countries
inhabited: Indonesia, Malaysia and the Philippines
Language
family: Austronesian
Language
branch: Malayo-Polynesian
The Bajau
have been a nomadic, seafaring people for
most of their history. Many Bajau still
practice that same lifestyle to this very
day, which explains why they are still commonly
called ‘sea gypsies’. They chart
particularly the waters of the Sulu Sea,
off the south west coast of the Philippines
and the various seas that surround the Indonesian
island of Sulawesi. These are among the
most dangerous waters in the world with
sporadic policing at best and a very high
incidence of open piracy.
Other Bajau
began living entirely on land about 200
years ago. While the seafaring Bajau still
make their living from fishing, those who
have abandoned that lifestyle have become
farmers and rear cattle and horses - earning
them the local nickname, ‘cowboys
of the east’. Indeed, their unique
skills are well known in this part of the
world and are demonstrated in Bajau ceremonial
events. Still, other Bajau live a lifestyle
between nomadic and sedentary, housed in
villages on the water, not far from land.
The Bajau
are a colourful, festive and musical people.
They believe they descend from royalty and
this is perhaps partly why they wear such
richly colourful clothes, often made by
hand from traditional fabrics. Brides and
grooms wear even more colourful clothing
at their weddings. The more highly-regarded
a woman, the more brightly and colourfully
she will be dressed. She will also receive
many water buffaloes which, to the Bajau,
is a special animal that usually forms part
of any woman's dowry. Arranged marriages
are common and marriage by kidnap or elopement
is also an occasional occurrence.
Although
they are the second largest indigenous community
in Sabah, the precise origin of the Bajau
is unknown. They may have come from Johore,
in peninsular Malaysia, long before the
two Borneo states became a part of the country.
Wherever they came from, their migration
has been attributed in part to their pursuit
of trade, particularly in a sea cucumber
species called the Trepang. It is considered
a delicacy and is used in soups made as
far away as China, where it is also used
medicinally. Bajau divers can descend into
the sea as deep as 30 meters (100 feet)
in search of it.
Almost all
Bajau today are Sunni Muslims. They believe
that there are among their people direct
descendants of Prophet Mohammed. Yet, many
- predominantly the seafaring, nomadic Bajau
- retain spiritually based religious practices
that pre-date any ‘major’ religion.
In their religion, designated spirit mediums
communicate with the spirit world in ritual
ceremonies of celebration, worship and exorcism
- in which, for example, spirit boats are
sailed into the open seas to cast the offending
spirit away from their community. They also
worship the God of the sea, Omboh Dilaut.
A large
part of Bajau history and tradition is captured
in their folklore. One ancient story tells
of a very large man named Bajau. His people
used to follow him to the river because
whenever he went there the river would overflow
due to his large body mass and they could
then easily harvest the dead fish. Other
tribes in the area soon learnt of his reputation
and, being envious of the advantage he bestowed
upon his people, plotted to kill him. But
their efforts came to no avail and he survived
the poisoned arrows fired at him. His epitaph
today is a stone, which he himself carried
to his own burial place - a stone that no
other man could lift. To this day some Bajau
- and other local indigenous peoples - still
fear his stone and his reputation.
Folkloric
stories like this are these days based on
interpretation handed down throughout countless
generations. Yet, however much the original
story may have been distorted or exaggerated
over time, it reflects a common theme in
many people's folklore: that theirs is the
dominant or superior people in a particular
region.
The Bajau,
like any distinct group, have lost some
of their heritage, as some of their stories
were never re-told to the next generation.
The Bajau are also beginning to lose some
of their identity as they integrate with
their adopted, land-based communities. Even
the most traditional, sea-faring Bajau are
losing their boat-building craft as they
replace their hand-made lipa-lipa boats
with commercially built, mass-produced ones.
On Sabah's south-eastern-most coast, these
lipa-lipa boats are a feature of the annual
Semporna festival, where the boats are colourfully
decorated and raced against each other in
a celebration of Bajau culture.
Despite
these changes, the richness of the Bajau
heritage is starting to gain recognition
and regarded worthy of preservation. In
addition to anthropological works, organisations
like the Sabah Bajau Arts and Cultural Association
and the Centre for Borneo Studies sponsor
various events that spotlight Bajau life. |